Welcome to Urban Village’s guided tour of Dulwich: a south London suburb of two halves. On one side, West Dulwich offers the peaceful tranquillity of a country village, with its local shops, cosy pubs and quiet streets. On the other, you’ll find East Dulwich, its trendy twin that boasts vibrant restaurants, bustling boutiques and culture.
Residents of Dulwich really do get the best of both worlds. There are few places in London that offer such a quintessentially village vibe as West Dulwich: take a lazy stroll around the village on a Sunday and pop in for a roast at the Crown & Greyhound (affectionately known to locals as the Dog) and you may as well be in a remote corner of Surrey, not mere minutes from the centre of London. East Dulwich, while livelier, still benefits from a similarly strong sense of community, with plenty of local amenities including its own Picturehouse Cinema and leisure centre. More than just another south London postcode, it’s a thriving neighbourhood with its own unique identity.
What both sides share is their allure as a place to live. Excellent schools (both private and comprehensive), sprawling green spaces, convenient transport links, beautiful properties and enough incredible places to eat and drink that you will never be short of choice, it’s no surprise that Dulwich is in high-demand from people of virtually all walks of life, be it families looking for a new neighbourhood to raise their children, or a single person buying their first home in London. Property hunting in Dulwich (on both sides of Croxted Road, the marker between East and West) is competitive, and having an Estate Agent who knows the area and can offer local advice is recommended.
Let’s take a look around and see what Dulwich has to offer.
Transport links
Transport links are one of the key practical selling points of both East and West Dulwich. East Dulwich provides direct overground services to London Bridge in around 15 minutes, making it a sensible option for city commuters. West Dulwich Station connects residents to Victoria in just 12 minutes, while nearby North Dulwich station offers links to London Bridge as well. Several bus routes also serve the area, with quick and easy connections to Brixton, Clapham, and other parts of South London, while the N3 can get you home from a late night in Oxford Circus in less than 45 minutes. If you need to travel further afield, Herne Hill station is a short walk away, providing additional services to central London, Surrey, North London and beyond.
Cultural gems
If you’re looking for cultural inspiration on your doorstep, both sides of Dulwich have plenty to offer. Next to Dulwich Park you’ll find Dulwich Picture Gallery, the country’s oldest public
art gallery that hosts an incredible collection of 17th and 18th century Old Masters, in a beautiful Victorian building designed by famous architect Sir John Soane. If contemporary art is more up your street, you can check out the Dulwich Outdoor Gallery: a collection of pieces dotted around South London on the sides of houses, stuck to paving stones, and tucked away in courtyards. These impressive artworks vary from tiny and easy to miss, to expansive murals, all part of a project that launched back in 2011 and has been growing ever since. You’ll also find several smaller independent art galleries in the area, as well as the one-of-a-kind House of Dreams, a fascinating museum/art installation by textile designer and art director Stephen Wright.
In terms of popular culture, East Dulwich Picturehouse on Lordship Lane shows a great mix of blockbuster hits and indie flicks, while several local pubs have a busy schedule of live music – just keep an eye out for flyers or ask at the bar next time you pop in.
Green spaces
Dulwich’s picturesque green spaces vary from perfectly manicured to wild and rambling. In Dulwich Village, the bucolic Dulwich Park has a beautiful boating pond, well-maintained gardens (including the ‘American Garden’ with its cedar trees, rhododendrons and azaleas) and three striking sculptures by artist Conrad Shawcross. It also has a café selling the usual cakes, coffee and sandwiches, as well as the less usual authentic wood-fired pizzas. There’s nothing quite like them after a 2.3 mile loop of the park (be prepared to queue, but know they are popular for a reason).
If you like your green spaces less cultivated, Syndenham Hill Wood offers 10 hectares of ancient woodland teaming with wildlife. Something of a hidden gem in the area, it’s a peaceful escape with winding paths, wildflowers, and even remnants of old railway architecture and a crumbling Victorian folly. Visit in spring to see bluebells and wild garlic blooming across the forest floor.
Dulwich after dark
If you’re looking for nightlife, take a walk along Lordship Lane in East Dulwich and discover a variety of pubs, bars and restaurants, many of which are open until 12am over the weekend. The East Dulwich Tavern is one of the most popular drinking destinations with locals and visitors alike, with a lively atmosphere, live music, quiz nights and a varied menu. For hearty traditional English fare you can try Franklins London, which often uses local(ish) vegetables from Kent. Kartuli, meanwhile, is arguably one of London’s best Georgian restaurants, its beautiful lush green interiors matched by its authentic Georgian dishes, including charcoaled pork, khinkali dumplings and homemade honey cake.
That’s not to say West Dulwich doesn’t have plenty to offer in terms of food and drink of an evening, but expect more of a sophisticated, relaxed vibe than East. Highlights in the village include siOn LONDON, a Mediterranean fusion restaurant serving “the best cocktails in South London” (in their own words); authentic Italian restaurant Cellar 107, and Churchills Wine Bar & Kitchen.
Family life
When it comes to schools, both East and West Dulwich offer several education options at all key stages. State schools such as Harris Primary Academy and Dulwich Hamlet Junior School in East Dulwich are popular for their strong academic results and supportive learning environments. In West Dulwich, Kingsdale Foundation School is a top-rated secondary comprehensive with a reputation for academic excellence and exceptional facilities.
For those looking to place their children in private education, Dulwich offers some of London’s most prestigious schools. Dulwich College, Alleyn's School, and James Allen's Girls' School (JAGS) are all within easy reach. These schools boast historic campuses, excellent academic records, and a wide array of extracurricular opportunities, making them popular choices for families in the area.
For early years education there are plenty of nursery and preschools to choose from, including the slightly more unusual School Outdoors Dulwich, a private nursery or ‘forest school’ where children are given plenty of opportunities to play and explore outdoors all year around.